Installed Steeda Autosports billet aluminum adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge. I've been having
problem with detonation, even at the factory ten degree advance timing with premium gas. After fighting
with the dealer I decided to fix it myself. The Steeda regulator is well made for a reasonable price. I
purchased the permanent fuel pressure gauge to use until I put one in cockpit. Installation is very
straightforward. First thing is to let the car cool down. This is safer and avoids burning hands on hot
engine components. You start by removing the plastic cap on the fuel check valve, located at the front of
the fuel rail on the right side of the engine. Surround the valve with rags to catch excess gas. Using a
small screwdriver and a bundle of paper towel release the pressure and soak up the gasoline. Go slow and
change towels often. Once the pressure is off you can remove the check valve assembly from the fuel rail.
The new gauge has an adapter to fit where the check valve was located. I used some Teflon tape just to be
safe. Bolt the adapter and fuel gauge in leaving the gauge pointing to the right side of the car so you can
see it while adjusting fuel pressure or hitting the throttle. Be careful not to overtighten the gauge. Once
the gauge is installed you can continue right to the regulator or, if you're curious like me, check the
pressure on your factory part. If you start the engine and pressurize the system you'll need to release all
the pressure before you remove the factory regulator. I removed the underhood fuse for the fuel pump and
ran the engine until it died from fuel starvation. As we found out, this does not totally relieve the pressure
on the fuel pump side of the regulator so not checking your factory pressure might not be a bad idea. Either
way be very careful when you remove the regulator (details to follow). I got shot right in the eye with a
stream of fuel when the seal broke. A fast blink reflex and a lot of water saved me from a night of
discomfort. The fuel pressure regulator is located at the back of the fuel rail on the right side of the
engine. It's very accessible and easy to change. First remove the vacuum line a rotate it out of the way.
Next surround the regulator with paper towel or rags to absorb any fuel that leaks when you break the seal.
Loosen the two allen head bolts that secure the regulator. Once these are out you need to carefully
work the regulator away from the mounting plate. The resistance you feel are the o-rings coming loose.
Watch out for spraying fuel! Once the regulator is free you'll want to put in on paper towel or a rag to
absorb the fuel that will leak out. Installing the new regulator is just like putting the factory unit
back on. Line up the tubes and push the regulator down until it's flush with the mounting plate. Install
both bolts and tighten. Leave the vacuum line disconnected until you check and set your fuel pressure.
Now clean up the engine compartment and reinstall your fuel pump fuse if you removed it. Have someone watch
the gauge and regulator for leaks while you crank and then start the engine. It's a good idea to run some
paper towel along the gauge and regulator to check for leaks that you can't see. Once you verify that the
system is tight it's time to adjust the fuel pressure. The factory regulator runs about 35 psi. I adjusted
my fuel pressure to 38 psi for starters. Once you set the pressure be sure to tighten the lock nut so it
doesn't drift. Reinstall the vacuum line and you're ready to go! This modification requires adjustment
and tinkering to realize any benefit. Your results will depend on what you're trying to do. For me, raising
the fuel pressure cured my detonation problem (see next segment). If you have more modifications you may
require a boost in fuel pressure to keep up.
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